Saturday, August 22, 2015

Lobster roll #1: purism versus modernism



I'm on vacation and that's a lobster roll. I made that one myself. It's a sort of benchmark for the rest of the vacation.

That's almost a classic lobster roll. Nowadays, most places will serve you a hot dog bun with a lobster salad made with Hellman's mayonnaise and, you hope, little else. And those are yummy. The original lobster roll was made with lobster meat, butter and nothing else. Except a roll.

That's a ciabatta in the picture. It wasn't chosen for any highfalutin reasons. Hot dog rolls were only available eight at a time. The end result was really good.

The key, if you want to make one of these yourself, is to clarify the butter. Then you brush a little on both sides of the bread and grill it. You sauté the lobster meat, cut into little chunks, in the rest of the butter and then assemble. You'll need napkins.

The purist versus modernist distinction comes from Lynn Hoffman's book Short Course in Rum. It's a useful distinction. The purist might insist on the Hellman's version or the hot butter version but always with a hot dog bun. Hot butter with ciabatta is just messing up categories. Sure was good though.

We're here on vacation but I'm doing some research while I'm at it. I hope to have the smoking gun that proves my ancestors were crimps before I leave. More to come ...

PS This is the view from where I'm blogging:



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